Product Details
- Shipping Weight: 1 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
- ASIN: B004KGTM90
- Amazon Best Sellers Rank: 1,333 in Toys ; Games (See Top 100 in Toys ; Games)
- 3 inToys ; Games Hobbies Radio Control Parts
By : Syma
Price : $0.30
Product Description
Has your Helicopter lost it's power. Will it no longer hold a Charge. This is a Factory Replacement 3.7v Li-Po Battery. Light Soldering is Essential.
Item Functions
- 3.7v 150 mAh LI-Po Battery
- Original Factory Replacement
- Never leave a Charging Battery Unattended
Consumer Reviews
I bought this battery to execute some experiments with increasing my flying time. This worked terrific. I now typical about 15-16 minutes flying time, and that is just until is starts to get a little weak. I could simply go an additional couple of minutes, but I don't want to push the batteries that difficult, and it is a lot even more enjoyable flying with charged batteries.
This modification is protected and simple and easy. This is simply because these cells use safety circuits to limit over discharge and more than charge. There are a few precautions even though:
1. Use two batteries of equal age. This means a new battery in a new heli and a new replacement battery, or two new replacement batteries. Do not mix a new replacement battery with an old, worn out battery.
two. Use two batteries of equal charge - preferably discharged. This is not essential, but it is far better to start out with two discharged batteries so they do not have any substantial power if you accidentally short something. Also, it just keeps everything in superior balance from the start.
three. Hook up the batteries in parallel - red to red and black to black. This doubles the battery capacity and increases the flying time. If you hook them up in series (finish to end), you will double the voltage, which will burn out the motors if it doesn't fry the heli's circuit board (and you will not be able to charge them anyway).
This is how you make the modification. Initial, the new battery is likely completely discharged, so fly your heli till the battery is discharged (unless you are employing two new cells). Then splice the new battery in parallel with the battery in the heli. I located it easiest to just cut out the existing battery, leaving about equal lengths of red and black wire. Then I trimmed the wires on the new battery to the exact same length. I then stripped and tinned all the wire ends. I then soldered the two batteries together, red to red and black to black. Using the double sided tape that held in the old battery, I stuck them together. I then slid some heat shrink over the wires coming from the heli. I then lap soldered the battery wires to the heli wires, red to red and black to black. I then slid up the heat shrink over the solder joint and shrunk it. You could also wrap the wires together and cover them with tape, but that is most likely harder in the restricted space, and they will not hold as nicely as solder. Then I removed the weight taped in the nose of the canopy. Finally, you just find the battery over the battery holder (see photo) and slide on the canopy - it is a snug fit, so there is no need to tape down the battery.
With this very simple modification, you will double your flying time - or alot more. Every battery has half the present getting drawn from it, so they preserve a greater voltage for a longer time. It's like the initially minute or two with a single battery, but for 10-12 minutes. Depending on how difficult you fly, even soon after 14-15 minutes, you can nevertheless fly up to the ceiling. After about 15-16 minutes, I commence to notice that the heli is losing trim and it is harder to preserve lift. I could quickly maintain going yet another couple of minutes, even flying in ground impact, but why push the batteries that difficult. The down side is that it would likely take three hours to recharge applying the USB cable charger. So rather, I'm employing the wall plug charger that takes about 1.five hours or less to totally charge the battery. The heli is also a tiny nose heavy, but I like that, and a large number of individuals add nose weights anyway. With the heavy nose, you usually have forward momentum, and I consider it is easier to manage. You can also go really rapid in the forward direction, but really slow backwards and you can't really hover. You can also add counter weights to the tail (like the weight from the nose) if you do not like it.
Some other notes on battery life:
1. I estimate that the heli draws about 1.2A to keep altitude.
2. Complete throttle draws about 1.5A max with a totally charged battery, but in most cases about 1.35-1.4A.
three. Operating the tail motor draws a further .2-.25A.
4. The LED only draws about 12mA, or only 1% of your average existing.
So you see, if you just preserve altitude, drift forward, and only turn appropriate and left, you only draw abut 1.2A. But if you are continually zipping up and down and forward and backward, you are drawing about 1.65A. I'm likely somewhere in the middle and I get a beneficial 15-16 minutes. Your outcomes could possibly differ.
-Cheers
This was a replacement battery for a Syma 107 that had more than 100 flights. Hope
the new one particular lasts as lengthy. Important thing, with these batteries let them cool ahead of
and following charging.
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